🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.